Going to Nepal

Joe's wild, zany adventures to Nepal and at home.

28 December 2006

So close.......

A few weeks ago (maybe a month) I posted that sometime early this coming year I wanted to climb 4 5.11+ routes straight. No falls, only clean takes to work past a problem section, and only the time to move from one route to another and tie in. Alan and I were working out this morning and I'd gotten three .11's with him climbing in between and we were winding down for the day. I decided to climb one last route, a new .11c on the first column. I can't explain it, but I completely flew up the route. I felt as though I had taken my time and had wasted little energy. Alan even comment about how I made it look really easy. He asked if I wanted another route, I hesitate, he said, you know you want another. I selected an .11b also on the front column and proceeded to make short work it as well. On the way down I decided that I would make an attempt at the getting the 4 today. I asked Alan if he didn't mind being my belay bitch for two more routes, no problem. I picked an .11a/b on the back side of the third column. I had done this one a few times before and wanted something easier to rest up for the fourth. About 1/3 of the way up, I really started to feel myself getting a bit pumped. I found a good rest position, only feet no hands, and shook out for a few seconds. I forged up the last 10 feet. The debate now became, what route for the last. I wanted to do an "easier" .11b, but couldn't find any, so I chose an .11c on the wall opposite the lead cave. I got about 1/3 of the way up when I realized I had made a mistake and didn't have the hand stregnth the switch my hands back the way they needed to be, so I called for a take. Alan took. He asked if I wanted to be lowered, no I replied, I'll finish it. I limped my way up the rest of the route and fell of the second to last move. Throwing my hands back on the wall, I made a last effort for the finish. I slapped it as I fell away. Good enough for today, but so close.......

3 Comments:

  • At 1:56 AM, Blogger Unknown said…

    Sounds like you need to think up your next goal as well. :)

     
  • At 8:47 AM, Blogger casacaudill said…

    I tried to get you to do a slab route for the fourth but you said that was cheating.

     
  • At 5:51 PM, Blogger Joseph said…

    H-It'll probably be a ladder. 5.8-5.12a

    CC-Slab route would have been cheating. So would the stem routes. You were right to suggest the .11c to finish it. Gotta go out with something hard.

     

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