Going to Nepal

Joe's wild, zany adventures to Nepal and at home.

30 June 2004

So I am now in Ayvalik. Quant little seaside town. After buying a ticket to Izmir that would have left this morning, I then realized that I needed to be here a day prior to leave my passport with the shipping company in order to get to Lesvos (greece). I dashed back to the bus company and ended up getting a night bus to Izmir. Left at 11:30 and got in at 5:30 (reminded me of going to work that early), once there I grabbed the first bus to Ayvalik and two hours later was here. Hardly lucid, I found a hotel, and crashed for awhile. Ran about getting things sorted for my trip to Lesvos, then took a boat ride to Alibey Island. Not to much was there, so I headed back to Ayvalik. Wandering about I found a great restaurant on the bay (note-I think that my trip should be retitled 'restaurants of the world'. Seriously, the amount of food that I eat creates an actual restraint on how much time I can go without finding a place to eat. And I sure am loving the Turkish food.) In any case, back to this particular eatery. How could you beat the atmosphere? Right on the water. Lamb chops for about $5, the setting sun in the back ground. Really all I needed was someone to talk to. I have realized that I speak about 15-20times a day. And these are usually not full sentances. 'Ayvalik?' at the bus stop. People don't know 'do you have a ticket to.....?' At least as far as I can tell. Oh well. Another little notice, and this is mostly for you ma, someone will have to teach me how to use untincels when I get home. I grab the fork like a kid, and don't even hand me a knife. Don't seem to recall how to use one. I usually cut the food, put the fork back in my right hand, put my left hand below the table, then eat the food. Just like Nepal, the left hand doesn't come near the food. Old habits die hard.

26 June 2004

Well. I had a great realization today. I was sitting on the boat (feeling well actually!!), when it dawned on me that, 'I'm in Turkey.' Gotta say that was pretty cool. I guess that has happened a few times over the past several months, but todays was great, hanging off the edge of the boat, over the Med, looking across the flat water of the bay, I was quite content with being in Turkey. The dives today were great. Pretty good visibility, not much in the way of marine life, but I admit that I got spoiled on that in Thailand. However, there are lots of great rock formations, some pretty cool swim throughs and some nice people. I had a pretty good day. Last night I watched France and Greece play in the quarter finals of the Euro Championships. What a great game. France is such a great team. They pass well, execute set plays well, and just flow up and down the field like water. Thiery Henry missed two great shots, one a bicycle kick from just outside the box and another a header that was a bullet. Zizou was outstanding as was Makelele and Pires. They lost. 1-0. It really was going to be a first person to make a mistake game from the start. I love being able to watch football live, what a great sport.
Tomorrow more diving, hopefully a night dive!!! OH, and 30m as well (100ft), just to see if I get nitrogen narcosis. Plus you have to do one deep dive to get advanced open water. Kisses from the fishes!

25 June 2004

Since I keep getting asked, the suit bag and my bloody hiking boots are in a hotel in Istanbul. So nice to be without them. Today I went to a place called Saklikent Gorge. It is an 18k long gorge that has a river at the bottom that varies in depth. I walked up for about an hour and a half, but was beaten back because I had my backpack with two cameras in it. I was treading water with my pack in one hand when it occured to me that no matter how hard I tried, I wouldn't be able to scale the four foot waterfall with A) one hand B) nothing to stand on. Retreat was inevitable. Oh well.
A few things that I have learned in Turkey. There is no such thing as an Express Bus. No matter where you go, the bus will stop for anyone who needs a ride on the side of the road if there is room in the bus. ANYONE. The guide book says the bus ride is 30mins, that would be if they DIDN'T STOP. An hour and a half. Grr. Another observation. The Turkish people are very aggressive and nice. In Pammukale, a tout wanted me to stay at his Pensyion (hotel) sight unseen. I told him that I would look at the place, but would see others as well. He asked for his pamphlet back. I handed it to him, he told me I didn't deserve it. I told him that was probably true, asked him which bus was to Pammukale, and he told me. HUH?? So strange.
Tomorrow I am starting my advanced open water SCUBA certificaion. Deep dive, navigator are required, then I am going to do multilevel, search and recover and night diving. Two, maybe three days, then trudge my way up the coast.
That is just about it from here. The weather is hot, Uma Therman is in town, I told her to stop following me, and hopefully France will lose tonight. This is not a shot Edward, it's just, well, they are like being the Yankees.

24 June 2004

Funny thıng about Mono Hot Sprıngs. There ıs thıs road that leads there, memorable to say the least for those that have drıven ıt. Wındy, narrow, huge fıelds of bolders on eıther sıde. A starkly beautıful envıronment, today I drove that same road ın Turkey. It was a bıt surreal, but none the less, beautıful. That was on the way to Feythıe, whıch ıs my current locatıon. A few days here, some SCUBA dıvıng, a vısıt to a really cool lookıng ravıne, then Butterfly Valley.
Last night I dıd make ıt back up to Hıerpolıs for sunset. Wow. The colours that spread across the hıllsıde were nothıng less than stunnıng. I was running all about the hillsıde tryıng to fıgure out where I wanted to be when the lıght was the best, perhaps I got ıt, perhaps not. I started at the Matryum, then ran down to the theatre, fınally gettıng the moment of sunset at the pools. The pıctures just do not do the panaroma justıce. I only hope that my fılm camera was suffıcent. In a few mınutes I should have pıctures off to all those on the lıst. If you are not recıevıng pıcs and would lıke to, please emaıl me at: albrtwick yahoo.com Thıs bloody computer does not have an *at* symbol, sorry.
Tonıght ıs football, England and some poor fool of a team. Go Italy!! (damn you denmark!!)

23 June 2004

So, Pamukkale. What a beautiful place. There are cascades of water over white cliffs, made of calcıum. I made my way up there this morning around 0830 before all the tourist buses were there. My goal was the ruins of Heripolis. They sit along a ridge above the pools. There is a theatre, I am sorry to make this reference, but it was like something out of Gladiator. Above that was an ancient church and to the west was the Martryum of St John. This was beautiful. Over lookıng the valley ın whıch Pamukkale sat and the fruıt fıelds surroundıng ıt. Quıte peaceful. I saw a tortıse here, just pluggıng along the ground. It was a bit surreal to be walking through ancıent ruins that were here long before I was swimmıng ın the pool. Seeing Greek columns remınded me of taking Humanities wıth Ms. Stone at PHS. I never could recall the names of the columns. Seeing them beat the classroom sıtuatıon. By this tıme all the package tours were ın, and it was gettıng to about 90F, so I headed down. I was really entertained at this poınt because everyone along the way was doıng their best impressıon of a model ın the small pools. Large Russıan women ıs bikinis was something that I did not need to see, nore their large husbands ın speedos. My mind ıs stıll scard. Tonıght I am goıng to go back and try to catch the sunset, that or (yea rıght!!) get up for sunrise. Then it is off to Fethyıe for some time on the beach. After that I work my way up the coast for a few days here and there. The current planned stops are Marmarıs for dıvıng, Ayvalık for olıve oıl ( a note on food-I am in heavan. I eat feta for breakfast everyday wıth tomatoes, salamı, bread, havartı, some eggs, I eat lamb kebabs all the tıme, last nıght I had BBQ chıcken, I mıght be putting my weight back on!!!), then a few days on Levos to vısıt a friends mom, Efes for more ruıns, Truva (Troy-the real one not that shıte movıe) and Istanbul. The 10th I leave for Morocco, and hell ıf I know what I am doıng there. I will fıgure that out when I get off the plane ın Casablanca.

22 June 2004

Pamukkale Turkey-
So I have arriıved in Turkey. The keyboard is a little different than the one that Im used to using. I have come to this place in search of relaxation. I believe that I maybe find it here. It reminds of a place in the Sierras called Mono Hot Springs. A beautiful location set among the trees. This place has natural cold water pools that you can dip into. I will explore them later. First, let us recount the journey that led us to this place.
Bangkok, 1430 local tıme- Get into taxi to aırport. This should only take 30mins, but thanks to traffic, almost an hour. Yea. My flight was at 1915, I wanted to verify that I was going to be skipping PK. Well, your flight out of PK is confırmed but the one from Dubai to Istanbul ıs full, you can try standby. Fine.
1915-Flight leaves Bangkok, after an additional check of EVERY passenger getting on the plane. Carry ons, another pass with the metal detertor. It really pissed me off, just because this flıght was goıng to Pakıstan, we were all bad peoples. Grr.
Karachi 2245 local tıme-Arrıve. Collect bags, pass through customs, get asked what its lıke to have Arnold as a gov. Frown and decline to respond. Go up to the depature gate. Cant check in until 0300. It was 2345. Find a nice plot of benchs to *relax* on. I met some really wonderful people ın Karachi. I think that sometime ın the future I will be going back.
0300- Check in and go to gate. OH, the airports ın the middle east, safest in the world. THREE times you pass through a metal detector and so does your luggage. *Rest* at gate.
0500- Board plane. I am barely conscious at thıs point. I am hungry, thırısty, and tired.
0545-Depart
0645 local tıme-Arrıve Dubaı-Now thıs ıs where it gets interestıng. I can fly standby or spend the nıght ın Dubai. Whıch ıs not my fırst choıce. My flight does not leave untıl 1435. (a note on the military times-I cant find a colon on this keyboard). So I have a bit of time to kill. This airport has a HUGE duty free area. And wow do I love shopping, oh, no, waıt that is not me. I find the movıe section and they are showing LOTR-Return of the King. Score one for me. The reason I am flyıng stand-by ıs because I changed my flight date to avoid PK. Tıck tock, tıck tock.
1315- Beg the guy at the gate to give me a seat. He ıs a janıtor. I grimmace.
1345-Beg the Emırates employee to give me a seat. He says that I have to wait.
1415-I GET A SEAT. I almost kiss this man. Well, not really, but I was elated.
1425-Get in my seat.
1430-Move over one seat for a 600yr. old russıan women
1440-Take off.
1800-Arrive Istanbul
2300-Sleep.
This would be great if this was where it ended, HOWEVER, I dont know who, but someone told me that Izmır was a cool place. When I recall who that person is, they wıll be ın a world of pain. Izmır ıs a hole, lıke the central valley is a hole. NOTHING. I did not discover thıs until AFTER my 10hr. bus rıde to get there. Quıckly, I decided to GET OUT. Four hour bus rıde later, here I am. Gettıng ready to change my underware, go for a cool swım, and relax for a few days.

17 June 2004

I'm sorry, I forgot to mention my last dives in Phi Phi. The first one was to 18m for about 45min. The visibility was quite nice, maybe 15m. Some nice fan coral, good marine life. When we surfaced there was a bit of a swell going on, nothing like the previous day, but I still wasn't having fun. Then I got to watch one of the other clients lose his breakfast over the side of the boat. Backflips for my stomach. Next dive was to 16m for about 50mins, the visibility was not nearly as good, but still amazing. Saw a Crown of Thorns, very dangerous. When we came up the swell was still on, and it was lunch time, for everyone but me. I sat on the stern of the boat staring at the island, hoping that it would stabilize. For some reason, it didn't. Paul, my dive master, was really understanding, so we would be getting ready before we got to the dive sight in order to hit the water straight away. On the last dive, I told him that I wanted to be first in the water and last on the boat. No problem, we only dove to 14m so our air would last longer. Pretty good vis on this dive, just over 10m. I loved rolling over on my back and just looking up into the "sky". The water was so peaceful, watching the reef fish school over head. Everytime you breath of exhale that twitch just slightly, so there was this magic moment in between those periods when the water was undisturbed and they would just swim, twitch, swim, twitch. You're not supposed to, but once in awhile I would hold my breath just slightly to see them swim nomally. Pure peace. We puddled along the bottom over this small coral mount when I was confronted with something that has frightened me for years. I love the water, swimming, FRESH water boating, whatever, but if I can't see the bottom of it, it scares the shite out of me. I began to get over this two years ago when I went to Hawaii and Darren took me surfing. Very peaceful. My fear is semi-rational, but not backed up by the chances of a shark attack, so coming over a coral mount and seeing a 2m leopard shark, well that was it. Paul pointed it out, calmly just resting on the bottom, we deflated our BCD's to get as low as possible. As I settled onto the bottom about 3m away, an eye opened, blinked and the tail flicked, gone. The experience last about 15sec, but I will never forget watching that creature, in it's environment. About 10mins later, we surfaced, and oh yea, more chop. Still not as bad as the day prior, but still not great. We motored into shore and unloaded the gear. Washed up and that was diving in Thailand. I plan on doing some in Turkey and maybe Morocco if I can find any there. I'm going to at least get a snorkel and fins.

15 June 2004

Bangkok-
Well I'm back in Bangkok for a few days. I went and got measured for a suit, tux and jakcet today. $500 for all. This includes shirts, coats, cumberbun, vest, blah, blah. All Kashmir wool. VERY NICE. Black on the tux (duh!), grey on the suit (thanks Kate!!) and a different shade on the winter coat.
Took the ferry from Phi Phi to Krabi yesterday, then the bus to Surat Thani, then the train to Bangkok (12:30hrs-ughh). Got in at 5:15 this morning, had breakfast, found a hotel (w/ aircon-it's bloody hot here), then saw the royal palace and Wat Pho. The royal palace was less than grand, the only really neat part was seeing the emerald Buddha. Quite beautiful, but you can't get closer than 15m away. Wat Pho on the other hand was nothing less than stunning. The pictures that I took just won't do it justice. It is reclining Buddha that measures 15m long (50FT!!!). The head is the size of a mini van. It's also known as the "Golden Buddha" due to it's golden colour. HOWEVER it is NOT gold or bronze, it is a clay that appears to be golden. Strange.
A few things that have really thrown me for a loop since coming here. In Nepal you are dealing with not only the Hindu culture, but a culture that is still in the process of intergrating "western culture" and all of it's idealogies. Bangkok on the other hand, is WAY passed this stage. While I was eating breakfast at 6:15 this morning, the american I met on the train was getting hit on by a Thai girl. She went so far as to come over to our table to talk with us. We were both entirely to tired to deal with this. The culture is so different from the one that I came from that I am having a hard time dealing with it. The price thing isn't to bad, it's not as cheap as Nepal, but I still get thrown for a loop by the prices. I'm going to try and get pictures up by tomorrow. Take care all.vv
Bangkok-
Well I'm back in Bangkok for a few days. I went and got measured for a suit, tux and jakcet today. $500 for all. This includes shirts, coats, cumberbun, vest, blah, blah. All Kashmir wool. VERY NICE. Black on the tux (

10 June 2004

So I've finally but some of my thoughts together about leaving Nepal. I can't believe how sad I was to go. Natalie and Leonoor came to the guest house to say good bye. Having been in Thailand for almost 5 days now, I can truly say that I left home. I almost spoke in Nepali to help someone who was trying to order in a restaurant the second night that I was here. I keep shaking my head from right to left to say yes thinking that people understand what I am saying. At times I feel like I would rather go back there than continue on my round the world journey, but I know that there are pleanty of adventures to be had in the place that I am and the places that I am going.
My ticket to Karachi has been changed. I arrive there at 8pm on the 20th and leave on the 21st at 5:45 for Turkey. This gives me pleanty of time to do the things that I want, but not early enough to see some people who are passing through there.
My time in Thailand has been nothing less than epic. I met an American in the airport in Kathmandu from San Fran. We chatted for awhile and he seemed to be an allright guy, so we decided to share a room. After we found a hotel, we went out to get a bite to eat. While there we met a really cool Indian guy named Surhil (sunny) and his Thai friend Panya. After getting a bite, the four of us of went to a bar for a few beers. The other American proceeded to get totally plastered and fall on the floor at the bar. It was at this moment that I realized I need to find another place to crash that evening. Panya, being a really generous asked if I wanted to crash at his place. LOVE TO!!!!! Meanwhile Sunny was getting plastered. To the point that I ended up carrying him, my 35kg of shite down the street while Panya found a cop to unlock his tyre. CLASSIC. We woke up on Thrs. AM at around 10. Made a few calls and decided to goto Phuket. Drove to the airport. Arrived there at 11:45 for a 12:45 flight, sat down to eat some breakfast. I hear them call final boarding for our flight, we run down, catch the plane and fly to Phuket. On the way we met a really nice English guy traveling with an Irish girl (friends). We all ended up in a small town called Kata on Phuket for the night. That evening we caught some Mhuy Thai Kick Boxing. Lots of fun. Woke up the next morning and decided to goto Ko Phi Phi Don. They wanted to dive and I wanted to get certified. So this is where I am. Working on my PADI cert, today I did an open water dive in calm seas only to come up to a 1m (3.3ft) swell and a 45min boat ride from the beach. My stomach and I argued the whole way in about where lunch was going to end up. I won. Rather unfortunately my brain hasn't felt right all day. A bit woosey. Tomorrow I have three dives left to do, I'm pushing for beach dives, but don't think that I'm going to win. C'est la vie. Then on Tuesday I'm headed back to Bangkok for some "rest" and a little sight seeing. One of the volunteers (leonoor) is going to be flying in from Kathmandu on the 17th, so I'm going to try and see her. Then on the 20 it's off to Turkey. Well the internet cafe is closing now, it's 11:00 and France is playing England in the Euro Cup tonight, I hope to get a good night's sleep. Love to you all. Pictures when I get back to Bangkok.

08 June 2004

.........and so it ends. I'm quite sad. Yesterday was VERY hectic, can't go into details right now, but CRAZY. I could not help but notice the route on the last part of my day. Started in Balaju, then to Dhapasi and finally in Battisputali where it all started. The exact order that I entered this coutry. Seemed natural. I'll give more details on the last week tomorrow, but I am scared and sad and excited just like I was when I left the states to come here.

02 June 2004

Well, I'm back. Chitwan was amazing, the whole four days was wonderful. Friday morning we all met to take the bus to the rafting location. The bus ride was uneventful. We get off, grab all our stuff, sign a waiver saying they are not responsible for lost or stolen items, and walk down to the beach without our bags. I didn't realize until later how funny this was. No one lost anything, but I still found it funny. We divided up into three rafts and off we went. The Trisuli is one of the closest rivers to Kathmandu that is raftable, and also one of the least exciting. There was one class four rapid, but what fun was had in the river!! Lots of swiming, backflips off the bow, lots of diving off rocks, water fights. I fondly recalled my days of boy scout canoe trips. One of the Aussie volunteers and I floated through a class three rapid, THAT was fun. While we were floating down, there was a few boat loads of Nepali guys also rafting. We ended up spending the night on a beach just up from there. They were having a bit of a dance party. We joined in. The beer we had drank encouraged us. After getting down with them for an hour or so, we crashed. Next morning we were up by 7 and packed and on the road waiting for the bus by 8. 8:30. 9:00. 9:30. 10:00. Do we have a bus? 10:30. Should we walk? 11:00. Finally our bus showed up, much to the chagrin of the shop keeper who's store we occupied.
We piled into OUR bus, it was only the 15 of us. Plugged along for an hour before the traffic jam. In Nepal a road is, by western standards one and a half lanes, by Nepali standards, it's relative to the size of the vechiles, but a minimum of three. Buses. This just doesn't work. Add land slides and road construction, and you don't go any where fast. We stopped, I hopped on the roof of the bus to snap a few pictures of the traffic, a few other volunteers joined, we began to move. ALL RIGHT!!! We rode the top of the bus 5hrs to Chitwan. All the locals would stare at the westerners on the top of the bus. It was really entertaining. At one point we pass in the opposite direction of a traffic jam that was about 6k (4miles) long and not moving. Poor bastards.
Upon arriving at the resort, we were in heavan. A/C, a swimming pool, no daal bhaat!!!! We hit the pool ( to wash of 5hrs. of dust and grime) and then relaxed. That evening there was a Tharu cultural show that was beautiful. The next morning was a 5:30 wake up call for the canoe ride. It was nice, but sitting in the boat after being up till 12:00 sipping Baileys was bad for some people. I was pretty lucky. One of the Aussie boys drank a bit to much from what they called the "Mug of Doom". Nasty. We did see a crocodile, but not much else. The jungle walk that followed was great. These enormous trees that seemed to wind around one another, it was beautiful. We also saw spotted and barking deer. At the end of the jungle walk we went to the elephant breeding center. We spent about an hour there watching these two little elephants smash into one another. From there we walked back to the river to take a "ferry" accross. When we got to the other side, the elephants from the breeding center were coming for bath time. What a treat that was!!! Watching them wallow in the water, blow water over their backs, submerge their heads and breathe through their trunks, amazing. Back to the lodge for lunch, then three hours of free time. There was a lot of discussion about swimming, but it ended up being three hours of nap time. Dragging ourselves up from the couch in the dining hall, Fatty (a 150lb aussie boy) and I thought it had only been 30mins. We rushed around getting ready for the elephant ride. You cannot really prepare your self for just how uncomfortable this really is. Especially after riding on top of a bus for 5hrs. The basket shakes around and you feel like a rag doll. HOWEVER, we did see rhinos. That was great. They look like huge armored tanks that just walk about eating grass. And they are not afraid of the elephants at all. Until there were nine of them. Then the mother and baby ran off, I got a few good shots of their bottoms running away. The rest of the ride was fairly uneventful, alot of TRYING to avoid getting hit by the trees. The mahoot (elephant driver) let Natalie "drive" the elephant the last 10minutes, that was fun, we all had a good laugh as it would not go where she wanted it to. Disembarking, we walked back to the lodge. Along the way we were peppered with requests for pens, chocolates and rupees. Having spent a fair amount of time here, we had come up with responses to these requests:
"One pen?"
"Copi dinus." Give me paper.
"Five rupees?"
"Chocolate dinus." Give me chocolate. Chocolate means candy, any kind. And it certainly does not mean actual chocolate.
"Gimme one chocolate?"
"Rupee dinus."
What was great about this was that they mostly got the joke. You want something, fine, so do we. They would smile coyly and run away. We were the kings. Or had at least turned begging into a game for all of us.
The next morning there was a shortened bird watching session due to rain and the lack of birds. And the fact that it was friggin' 5:30am (sorry pop, but this now is just to damn early). Pack up, eat and catch the bus. Then the adventure of bus travel began. We climbed up on top. The bus was about 75% full. We stopped, more people got on. We stop again, more. Now the bus in 90% full and there are 12 people on top. Lovely, we ride on top, they sell our seats again. Which didn't become a problem until later when it began to rain. Whoops. Everyone climbs in side and 5 of us are without seats. Oh well, I still managed to fall asleep while standing up. Reminds of the days at the Palindrome. The bus trip was wonderful, and by wonderful I mean long, and by long I mean s l o w. 10hrs to go 170k. That's a little over 100miles. But fun was had. We bargained for food with the locals at all the traffic jams, they loved the fact that we spoke Nepali. A bag of oranges that started at 100r was quickly reduced to 30r with a few words like: Deri mahango chha, "that is very expensive". Then they would reduce the price and we would begin bargaining. SO much fun. I love haggling.
Now I'm back in Kathmandu with six days left and only one teaching, during which I have to give exams. I don't like this, but it's the way it is. I'll bring cake for tiffin and they will love.
Here is a current list of Bandas that are taking place or will be in the near future:
Over the last few weeks, the Maoist leadership and a number of Maoist affiliated organisations have declared a schedule of bandhs and "actions" targeting both society in general and a number of identified industrial sectors. There has been some confusion and misreporting in the press on the timing and form that these will take. The following is a list of activities, as we know of them today, some of them remain unspecified.

1 - 3 June : June protest in the transport sector. This may lead to a total transport ban.

2 June : Country-wide bandh.

4 - 6 June : Protests in the garment and carpet industries.

6 June - ? : Indefinite closure of schools and educational institutions.

7 - 9 June : Protest in the tourism sector, including starred and non-star hotels,
lodges, guesthouses, resorts, trekking and rafting agencies.

10 - 12 June : Country-wide bandh.

Past experiences indicates a pattern of increased bombings and other acts of violence and intimidation in the lead-up to a bandh. You all are advised to exercise heightened security awareness during this period. You should also try to keep abreast of events through the local media. Nepalnews.com is a useful source of information.
Again, they mostly hurt the kids. Bastards. Should have pictures up later today. Happy B-day RUNT!!!!